Read the following passage and answer the questions below - Leaving Cert Physics - Question 11 - 2018
Question 11
Read the following passage and answer the questions below.
The Physics of Surfing
Many people are surprised to learn that there is a lot of physics involved in ... show full transcript
Worked Solution & Example Answer:Read the following passage and answer the questions below - Leaving Cert Physics - Question 11 - 2018
Step 1
What physical quantity is transmitted in a wave?
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Answer
The physical quantity transmitted in a wave is energy. Waves carry energy as they propagate through the medium, transferring it from one location to another without the permanent displacement of the medium itself.
Step 2
Why do waves break close to the shore?
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Answer
Waves break close to the shore because as they move into shallower water, the wave height (amplitude) increases while the wavelength decreases. This change in depth causes the wave to become unstable, leading to breaking when the wave height exceeds a certain limit.
Step 3
Draw a diagram to show the main features of a wave.
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A diagram should include:
Wave shape (crest and trough)
Wavelength (distance between crests)
Amplitude (height from rest to crest or trough).
Step 4
State Archimedes' principle.
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Answer
Archimedes' principle states that when a body is immersed in a fluid, the upthrust (buoyant force) experienced is equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the body. This means a floating object displaces its own weight of fluid.
Step 5
What is meant by the term buoyancy (upthrust)?
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Buoyancy or upthrust refers to the upward force exerted by a fluid on an object immersed in it. This force counteracts the weight of the object and determines whether it sinks or floats.
Step 6
How does buoyancy help the surfer to stay afloat?
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Answer
Buoyancy enables the surfer to stay afloat by providing an upward force that counteracts their weight. When the surfer stands on the board, the board displaces water, creating enough buoyant force to keep both the surfer and the board above water.
Step 7
Draw a labelled diagram to show the forces acting on a floating object.
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Answer
A diagram should show:
Weight acting downwards
Buoyant force acting upwards
The object floating in a fluid with indicated forces.
Step 8
Explain how the stance of the surfer helps them to balance.
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The stance of the surfer is crucial for maintaining balance. By adjusting their center of gravity and positioning their feet correctly, surfers can effectively manage their weight distribution on the board. This allows them to respond to the dynamic forces of the wave and stay upright.
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