Migration of Foreign Textile Workers (Edexcel A-Level History): Revision Notes
Migration of Foreign Textile Workers
Context: The English cloth trade in the 16th century
The cloth trade was vital to the English economy during the Tudor period. By Elizabeth I's reign, cloth exports reached around 100,000 pieces annually, generating approximately £750,000 per year. By this time, London merchants handled 90% of this trade, demonstrating the capital's growing dominance in commercial activity.
However, the cloth industry faced significant vulnerabilities:
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Economic instability: The trade was prone to fluctuations. Government policies such as debasement in the 1540s temporarily boosted exports by making English cloth cheaper abroad. However, when the coinage was revalued between 1551 and 1552, profits declined temporarily before stabilising under Elizabeth.
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Dependence on Antwerp: English cloth merchants relied heavily on access to the port of Antwerp in the Netherlands. This trading hub was controlled by the Habsburgs, who also ruled Spain, making it a key consideration in Tudor foreign policy.
The English cloth trade's heavy dependence on Antwerp created a critical vulnerability. When access to this single trading hub was disrupted, it threatened England's most important export industry and forced the country to seek alternative markets and trading partners.
The decline of Antwerp and its consequences
From the early 1560s, Antwerp's position as England's main trading partner began to deteriorate:
- 1563: Spanish rulers imposed an embargo on English cloth trade (lifted in 1564)
- 1566: Widespread rioting erupted in Antwerp, partly due to Protestant discontent
- 1567: The Duke of Alba arrived with Spanish forces and brutally suppressed the unrest
- 1576: The 'Spanish Fury' saw Spanish troops sack the port, causing further damage
The outbreak of the Dutch Revolt from around 1566 made it increasingly difficult for English merchants to trade through Antwerp. England was eventually forced to become involved in the revolt to protect both its trading interests and Dutch Protestants.
This crisis led to two important developments:
- The arrival of Protestant refugees bringing new cloth-making techniques
- Increased English interest in exploration to find alternative markets
The new draperies: Transforming the English cloth trade
What were the new draperies?
Immigrant Dutch cloth weavers introduced innovative, lighter-weight fabrics that differed significantly from traditional English cloth. These new textiles involved:
- Mixing worsted yarn (a smooth yarn named after Worstead in Norfolk) with woollen yarn
- Combining woollen yarn with silk
- Creating fabrics that were cheaper and more colourful than traditional English broadcloth
Economic advantages of the new draperies
The arrival of these new techniques brought several benefits to the English economy:
Opening new markets: The lighter, cooler fabrics sold well in Mediterranean markets in southern Europe, which had previously been neglected by English merchants who focused on northern European trade through Antwerp. This diversification was crucial given Antwerp's decline.
Increased demand: The new cloths tended to wear out more quickly than traditional heavy English fabrics, creating a higher demand for replacements and thus more frequent sales.
Employment opportunities: The new draperies required large amounts of labour to produce them. At a time of high poverty and unemployment, this provided vital work for many people.
Product diversification: The English cloth trade expanded beyond broadcloth to include new textiles such as:
- Says (a type of serge)
- Grosgrains (corded material)
- Mockadoes (mock velvet)
By the end of the 16th century, the new draperies were generating £250,000 per annum, representing a significant portion of cloth trade income. This demonstrates the substantial economic impact of the foreign textile workers' techniques on the English economy.
Associated industries
The arrival of foreign textile workers stimulated the development of related industries:
Silk-weaving: Foreign silk-weavers arrived in London during the 1570s, establishing a new luxury textile industry.
Starch production: Dutch migrants introduced the technique of making starch from wheat. Starch was essential for producing fine materials like lawn and cambric, and for creating the fashionable ruffs popular during this period. Starch production became so successful that Elizabeth I sold it as one of her monopolies in the 1590s to raise revenue.
The migration of foreign textile workers
Reception and settlement patterns
The foreign textile workers who began arriving in England from the 1560s were known as 'aliens' – a term used for all foreigners in Tudor England. Typically, migrants faced suspicion and dislike, and their activities were closely monitored and controlled.
The Dutch cloth workers received an unusually positive reception. The English government actively welcomed them because they possessed highly skilled techniques superior to those of English cloth workers. This pragmatic approach shows how economic benefits could override the general xenophobia of the period.
The government made deliberate efforts to encourage these migrants to settle in towns across the south and east of England.
Geographic distribution
Most migrants arrived through the ports of:
- London
- Southampton
- Bristol
Communities of foreign textile workers were soon established in towns including:
- Maidstone, Canterbury, and Sandwich (all in Kent)
- Norwich (Norfolk)
- Colchester (Essex)
Government regulation and local demand
The demand for these skilled workers was so high that towns competed to attract them. A revealing example comes from Maidstone, where the town council requested 60 families with skills in making 'mockadoes' and 'says' to settle there. However, the government only permitted 30 families, showing that migration was carefully controlled even when it was encouraged.
The activities of foreign textile workers were subject to specific regulations:
- They could only employ English apprentices and unskilled workers
- This ensured that skills were transferred to English workers while controlling competition
These regulations balanced the benefits of foreign expertise with protection for English workers and facilitated knowledge transfer.
Economic impact on specific towns
Maidstone: The arrival of Dutch migrants created an entirely new industry – the making of linen thread. This development had a ripple effect:
- Encouraged the growing of flax in the region around Maidstone to supply the linen industry
- The linen industry gradually expanded as ordinary people began wearing linen clothes instead of woollen ones
- This represented a significant change in consumer habits and local agriculture
Norwich: Dutch migrants helped revive the worsted cloth industry in this town. By the mid-1580s, Norwich had approximately 4,600 'aliens' living there – a substantial foreign population that transformed the local economy.
Regional limitations
It is important to note that the impact of foreign textile workers was geographically limited. Their influence was felt primarily in the regions and communities where they settled – the south and east of England. In other parts of the country, there was no significant change to the cloth industry, and traditional production methods continued.
Broader significance
The migration of foreign textile workers demonstrates several important aspects of Tudor economic and social policy:
- Pragmatic economic policy: Despite general xenophobia, the government prioritised economic benefits and actively welcomed skilled migrants
- Economic adaptation: The arrival of new techniques helped England adapt to the loss of Antwerp as a trading partner
- Industrial innovation: Foreign skills helped modernise and diversify England's most important export industry
- Urban development: The migration stimulated the economies of several provincial towns
- Skills transfer: Regulations ensuring employment of English workers facilitated the transfer of valuable techniques
Exam tip
When answering questions about economic change in this period, consider both the immediate impact (new products, employment) and longer-term consequences (market diversification, reduced dependence on Antwerp). Always support your points with specific evidence such as the £250,000 annual revenue from new draperies or the 4,600 aliens in Norwich.
Key Points to Remember:
- Foreign textile workers, mainly Dutch Protestants, began arriving in England from the 1560s following the Dutch Revolt and decline of Antwerp
- They introduced new draperies – lighter, cheaper fabrics that opened up Mediterranean markets and generated £250,000 per annum by 1600
- Despite general suspicion of 'aliens', these migrants were actively welcomed by the government due to their superior skills
- Major settlement areas included Maidstone, Canterbury, Sandwich, Norwich, and Colchester in the south and east
- By the mid-1580s, Norwich alone had 4,600 foreign textile workers, demonstrating the scale of migration
- The impact was regionally limited to areas where migrants settled; other parts of England saw little change to traditional cloth production